Volkswagen Golf Hatchback (1992 - 1998) 2.0 GTI 3d Owner Review

My MK3 GTI was my weekend toy, originally bought to have something to throw around on the B roads and race tracks during the summer weekends but, since owning it the plans for the car changed somewhat. My car is 1996N but didn't have the option when entering the details. My car had a series of age-related works that needed to be carried out, even with low miles for a 1996N car it still needed some suspension work, brakes and countless other odd jobs, but I always knew looking for a 20+-year-old car would create that. Worse still was the rectification of bodge jobs using salvage parts that weren't correct for the car. Driving the car last summer was amazing after the work was carried out, it drove and felt like a new car but with the noise, sounds and smells of a classic. The 2.0 8v (AGG in my case) engine gets poor reviews from the fan boys, but I like it, it’s just over a second slower to 62 than the ABF 16v cars. It’s got quite a lot of torque for a 115 BHP lump, with the new suspension (gas struts not oil filled), polybush top mounts the car feels poised and is so much fun to drive, even with the PAS you still feel connected and like you're actually driving the car which is something my 2015/65 plate Sirocco lacks like a lot of other new cars. After getting all the mechanical jobs done and having the wheels refurbished the outside didn't match the inside, so I set about sorting the exterior out ordering new trims, lights and new front wings. My car is now finished, it looks amazing, drives brilliantly and has put more smiles on my face than anything I’ve ever owned. The MK3 was always VW’s most unloved Golf, as a result they’re becoming increasingly rare and they have the absolute best mix of new enough to be reliable and practical but old enough to be cool and respected, the loyalties for this once unloved motor have now shifted meaning, the prices are on the up. If you are looking for one I’d recommend a few things: Search for the 3 door cars, becoming harder to find but much easier to sell on and are increasing in value faster than the 5 door counterparts. When you look at one for sale, make sure the ABS and airbag lights come on and go out, the MK3 has them by the driver’s airvent/light switch so it’s very easy to miss when they’re lit or not working, something which will bite you at the next MOT, many owners just unplug the light. Rust - common places for MK3s, particularly sunroof cars, are the bottom of the front wings and front sill sections, the sun roof drain points are located in the door frame which combined with mud being flicked up adds a sloppy mess that rots the panels, other places are the front and rear arches - test these by gripping behind the arch with your fingers, if it crumbles then it’s bad, the arch trims do hide a multitude of rust so check here before parting with cash. Open the petrol flap, check around the metal to make sure it’s not rotten and take off the petrol filler cap, if the metal collar is rotten it cannot be replaced on its own and requires a new tank to fix, if it interferes with the fuel cap screwing on and locking then it’s an MOT fail. The boot lid, between the rear wiper and trim that is the external boot handle. This isn't majorly serious but can be a ugly blemish. If you are test driving the car, pop along to a Kwikfit/Halfords/Motosave and pay £10-£15 to put it on the ramp and check under the car. Rust can appear in the sills and also the holes left manufacturing process, normally these are filled with rubber bungs but as the metal is thin they can rot here badly, parting with cash before seeing the underside is a massive gamble, don't worry about surface rust though, they’re all at the 20-odd years age bracket so you will see surface rust. Also, put the car through a carwash or jetwash, MK3s can be a little leaky from sunroof seals and the rear light gaskets are foam so, after 20 years they can split but they’re not expensive to replace, if the boot smells musty/damp and the boot carpet is damp to the touch then its most probably the rear light gaskets. Cambelt - Make sure the cambelt has been done, the 8v engine uses a auxiliary belt driven water pump but still plan on changing this at the same time as the cambelt, intervals are 60k miles/3 years but if the seller can’t provide proof of this then it needs doing, mine cost me £150 with a local garage for a Gates belt. Many claim the 8v is not an interference engine which is true however, at full speed many MK3s have seen smashed valves and pistons as a result of belt failure. CV Joints - Golfs are known for CV joint issues, mine was no exception, but to save time and hassle I purchased a cheaper complete driveshaft meaning it was just bolt off and on, expect to pay £50-£100 in labour if using a garage. Keys - fantastic bargaining point if the car is missing a key, theyre around the £100 mark from VW for the transponder keys but, you can buy one on eBay for £7 and have the existing key transponder cloned for £10-£15, all in I replaced mine for £30 but chipped the previous owner the full £100 for this. Electric windows - MK3s can have problems with the electric window regulators, make sure you wind them all down and back up, if you hear a clicking noise then a refurb kit is needed (£12 each for brand new genuine parts), if they don't work at all the complete regulator is £50-100 for a good quality item. You can test this easier by putting the key in the front door locks then twist and hold the key in the unlock position, the windows should roll down and will roll up if performed in the opposite direction. Checking this also helps as the lock paddles can break inside the door meaning the lock doesn't work, this is fixed with a £3-£5 refurb kit and 30 minutes of fiddling. Also check the sunroof. Service history - A detailed service history with invoices on a car with high miles is much better than a low miles car with little to no history, the engines are very robust units and are good for 200k miles plus without serious issues providing they're looked after. Modifications - As the MK3 is becoming more an more rare, original cars are in the limelight now, you can earn a fair few quid buying a modified car and returning it to original condition if you can complete mechanical jobs yourself. My car had been fitted with a decat, this posed issues when going for the first MOT as any MK3 over 1995 M plate has much more stringent emissions parameters. Insurance - mine is on an agreed value classic policy, with myself and my best friend insured as drivers, it includes free salvage retention and has a 3000 mile annual limit, I’m 31, divorced, the car is not garaged, I pay £200 for the year. The MK3 Golf is a fantastic car fun car, with a few modern upgrades to suspension components and other areas it sticks to the road like glue. If you want an affordable modern classic with all the thrills of the MK2 but without the £5,000 price tag, the MK3 will serve you well, mine has given me so many smiles it will be with me for a very very long time. If you are looking for one, my best advice is, do the checks, stand and look at the car and trust your gut instinct, I walked away from four cars before buying mine, don't part with a penny if you are unsure. The forums on the internet and social media are a wealth of information and experience, you can also find some of the best examples for sale on them. Most VW forum members are a friendly bunch and some will even offer to come with you to look at your potential purchase if you want the help and they're local. Buying an old VW is as much about the scene as the driving of one, events like Bugjam and GTI fest are excellent fun. I'm misty eyed about my MK3, more and more people are following suit so, grab one now, whilst they're still affordable as these will be the last mainstream Golf's to accrue value, the MK4 is too common and the rest are too new.